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 Installing rebuilt 318

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PostSubject: Installing rebuilt 318   Sun Nov 05, 2017 8:36 am

Good morning all!!

Here's our story. I consider myself mechanically inclined. Two years ago, I removed her heart to be rebuilt. Since she is a breed of her own and not your "modern" engine removal, I was unable to figure out how to detach the torque converter/flywheel from the crankshaft. So, I removed the torque converter and the engine together. Fast forward to last week, we now have our rebuilt 318 back. I was not expecting for it to be 2 years later or I would have waited.

Here's my dilemma:

I now have a removed torque converter and a spacer plate of which I didn't remove. From the reading I have been able to find online, the spacer plate needs to be adjusted? And just how am I supposed to get that torque bolted back onto the crankshaft? Does it first get spun onto the trans?

I have posted a vid of our gem in the new members section. We would appreciate any help you guys can throw our way as her transformation is in the very beginning stages.




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PostSubject: Re: Installing rebuilt 318   Sun Nov 05, 2017 8:48 pm

Hello! Well I'm going through a similar situation at the moment with my 57's 301 and powerflite. I'm only in the disassembly stage, but I went through this years ago with another 58 that I had. I would install the torque converter onto the input shaft first since you need to engage the "forks" of the TC into the front pump properly by turning it until it slides all the way in, otherwise you can damage the TC or pump. As for alignment,there should be dowel pins that keep everything lined up, at least my current setup does. My 58 was a little different story because that car had a newer mid sixties poly with the original torqueflite trans. There were some fitment issues due to the change in bellhousing bolt patterns and crankshaft length difference which necessitated modifications to be made.

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PostSubject: Re: Installing rebuilt 318   Sun Nov 05, 2017 10:11 pm

First off, did anyone remove the offset dowel pins from the aluminum adapter plate? If they have not been removed, you should not have to do a torque converter housing bore runout check. This check uses a special tool that fits in the nose of the torque converter. Lots of luck finding someone who still has such a tool. I was lucky in the fact that the ones I did back in the when I was a young man, the dowel pins were never moved so I did not have to worry about checking runout. The aluminum spacer goes on first, then bolt the converter on, next comes the bell housing. The front pump drive sleeve had to be installed before the trans is installed. The "tangs" on the drive sleeve MUST line up with the matching tangs on the front pump and torque converter. When you go to install the trans do not use the bolts to draw it in. You WILL ruin the trans front pump and/or torque converter. I suggest using some threaded rod or long bolts in the top 2 mounting holes on the bell housing to support the trans during this tricky install step. If you can't get to slide all the way in, back out a little bit and try turning the engine ever so slightly until it pushes in flush. If I missed a step or someone has a better way, please add to this post. I am 72 and haven't done one of these with cast iron torqueflite in many years. All comments are welcome. BTW, you should have installed a new front seal in the transmission before you start your assembly.
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PostSubject: Re: Installing rebuilt 318   Wed Nov 08, 2017 7:23 pm

Here are a couple pics. So there are 2 dowels still intact in the spacer. How many should there be? Should there be dowels on both sides? Also, one comment states put the torque on the trans first the other says bolt on crank first. The trans has been rebuilt already and by the previous owner the seal looks relatively new yet.


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PostSubject: Re: Installing rebuilt 318   Wed Nov 08, 2017 8:03 pm

Hi Mounder and welcome to the CCC.

Is this a factory 58 engine and transmission? The instructions Chris gave you as far as installing the converter first are for a factory 58 setup. That spacer doesn't look 57-58 to me. If it's a later model 318 and transmission then follow Ron's instructions.

Normally (And This Went For My 350 As Well) for a factory 57-58 drive train you first install the converter onto the input shaft of the transmission using plenty of assembly lube. After pushing it on you rotate it while keeping pressure on it until she drops in a bit thereby engaging the forks. From there you would set the engine on a cradle, bring the trans to the engine and bolt the bell housing to the block after verifying the studs are properly aligned in the corresponding crankshaft holes. After tightening the bell housing to the block you tighten the converter to the crank by rotating the motor to get at the nuts and star lock washers one at a time until they are gradually and equally tightened to spec. The service manual has the torque spec.

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PostSubject: Re: Installing rebuilt 318   Wed Nov 08, 2017 8:47 pm

I wouldn't chance it, replace the input seal. It's cheap and easy to do now vs. later.

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PostSubject: Re: Installing rebuilt 318   Sun Nov 12, 2017 3:48 pm

Hey guys,

We appreciate all the input thus far. Here is another pic of the block # maybe you can be of assistance with decoding it.




Also, what is the part number for the trans seal behind the torque converter? Does anyone have a complete torque/flywheel for sale as my fins are all bent out of shape.
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PostSubject: Re: Installing rebuilt 318   Sun Nov 12, 2017 8:21 pm

My advise on finding an early cast iron torqueflite and converter would be to contact James Rawa. Send him a message via Facebook. He has one of the largest private collection of early model mopars around. He is also known as Fury Jim Rawa. If he can't help you he probably knows where to find what you need.
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